North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii
I have a good friend Danny who recently figured it out, and moved to the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The North Shore is like no other place in the world. Danny has been trying to get me to visit since the day he arrived. The Billabong Pipe Masters was coming up, so I took him up on the offer, making it a surf / photo business trip. My good buddies Chris and Bryan came along. Together we met some awesome people and had some good times. Danny, Chris, Rasta, Tyler- Thanks for the hospitality!


















New friends, Slow vibe, Hitch hiking, Poke (the best), Relax mode, Food Land hang out, Powerful surf
Rain (damn rain, way too much), Green everywhere, Billiards, Primas!!!, Warm water, Dirty water (sad), Pipeline, Backdoor (Heavy), Smart Bird, Beautiful People, Friendly Locals, Coarse Sand, Sunshine ( a little bit, but it was great!), Geikos, Puka, Frisbee, Irie music, Acai Bowls!, No driving, No parking, no traffic
I felt super good in Oahu. Neutrality, one mindedness. Just surf, and survive. Smile more. Let things pan out how they will. Strive to fill every moment with this feeling. Chill out and live. Don’t blow it, just live, positively.
I have had this feeling before. I think it comes to me on each trip I take out of the US. Something about seeing how other people live, simply.
Time to start planning the next one.


